Exploring Milos – Day 20

I’m sightseeing in luxury today.  I rented a car for the next few days as Milos is quite spread out and if I try and walk everywhere I won’t see much.  Not to mention every muscle in my body is killing me and I need a break.  

I set off in the “Gutless Wonder” and my first stop is Mandrakia which is a quaint fishing village.  The little boat sheds are built into the rock with each door painted a different bright colour.  There’s an elderly local tending to his boat while his German shepherd keeps a watchful eye.  The Gutless Wonder’s hamster wheel of a motor struggles up the steep hill out of Mandrakia but after some threatening words and pounding the dashboard, I make it and head off to the next village, Firopotamos.  

A beautiful church is perched seaside with white and dark cliffs beside it.  A ruined stone archway frames the Aegean Sea.  I get changed into my Insta dress and snap a couple of quick shots.  I meet a photographer who is setting up his camera and tripod for a shot of the cliffs.  He clearly knows what he’s doing and has the full complement of lenses and gear.  “It gets to be a bit much hauling all the gear around sometimes, doesn’t it?”  It takes him a moment to translate my comment into his language and then smiles and nods.  “But when you see your photos, it’s all worth it.”  I leave him be and wander aimlessly.  He finds me a few moments later and tells me that sunset in Firopotamos is beautiful and last night he stayed afterwards and captured the stars as well.  He suggests I return later to try for the same photo.  “I went to a church up on a hill the night before and I captured the Milky Way.  It was incredible”, he says.  I’m not sure if I have the skills but I thank him for sharing the tips and say I will give it my best effort.

The wind is even stronger today and when I get to the top of the mountain where Prophet Elias Holy Chapel sits, I’m bracing myself against the gale.  My camera lens is waving all over the place as I try to focus on the Venetian Castle in the distance.  The lens filter for my GoPro goes flying and I chase it down before it goes over the cliff edge.   I was thinking of coming here for sunset but decide I’m not taking my chances of getting blown off the cliff-side stairs in the waning light.  Time to think of another option.

I gingerly guide Gutless Wonder through the maze of narrow streets in Trypiti and manage not to knock the side mirrors off when another car comes the opposite way.  There’s inches between our vehicles but this is the norm when driving over here.  It reminds me of driving through Sicily.  A rental car passes me and I notice the driver side mirror is precariously hanging onto the vehicle with a massive wad of packing tape.  He clearly had some issues.

Klima is next on my list and it’s another tiny fishing village in a cove.  The boat sheds are colourful and there are B&B’s above some of them.  This area is famous on blogs and Instagram due to the multi-coloured doors.  I dodge big waves and water splashing onto the cement promenade to access the far side and only get one foot soaked.  One woman misjudges the wave and gets absolutely drenched.  She seems less than impressed with the view that has cost her dry clothing and stomps off muttering.  

I decide I’ll check out one of the beaches that’s thirty minutes away but when I arrive it’s super busy and I decide the beaches will be better for views at sunrise when they’re deserted and the light isn’t so harsh.  And let me clarify that “super busy” is probably not quite accurate as there’s maybe twenty cars in the parking lot, but for my purposes I want less than five cars in the lot.

I set Google Maps to direct me back to Pollonia.  Before I get to that adventure, let me describe Gutless Wonder.  He’s a tiny four door Hyundai hatchback and there’s minimal undercarriage clearance.  The tires look like they belong on a wheel barrow and as I’ve already mentioned, the engine is being powered by a hamster under the hood.  I set off following Google’s directions and mangled street name pronunciations.  Google tells me to take a right and I pass it by as it’s a single track dirt road.  That can’t be right.  The turnoff must still be ahead.  I continue another 100m and conclude that the dirt track is where I’m meant to go.  I do a quick u-turn and drive up what I’d generously call, a road.  After a few kilometres I’m in the middle of nowhere surrounded by low stone walls and olive trees.  “What the shit?!  Google!  Where the hell are you taking me?”  I see a steep hill ahead and have a minor panic attach that Gutless Wonder won’t make it but he crawls his way to the crest.  I drive through another olive grove and see tarmac ahead.  “Thank you baby Jesus!”  I’m on pavement for a kilometre and then Google pulls a fast one and turns me onto another dirt track.  “Seriously?  Is someone up in space responsible for GPS messing with me right now?”  There’s a short, steep and rocky hill ahead and I’m not feeling confident in Gutless.  I make it part way and the tires spin out.  “Shiiiiiiiiiit.”  I reverse to try another run at it and get out to move some of the bigger rocks so Gutless doesn’t bottom out.  “This is bloody ridiculous.  Why do they rent these useless go-carts when they know half the roads on this island need a 4×4?!”  I climb back into Gutless and give him some encouraging words peppered with some salty expletives.  Success!!  I make it to the top and see tarmac.  I don’t care where Google is instructing me to go at this point.  I’m sticking with pavement even if it’s the long way back to Pollonia.

Gutless and I limp back into town.  Both of us are covered in dirt and a bit worse for wear but we’ve managed to arrive in one piece.  That’s enough adventure for today.  There’s always tomorrow.