OVERVIEW
If I were to plan my time in Dubrovnik and Split again I would do one day less in Dubrovnik and definitely less time in Split. I prefer small towns, so I didn’t love Split other than the palace. You can see the main sites in a full day if you start early, which I suggest you do if you want to avoid crowds. Split and Dubrovnik can be party towns as a lot of backpackers visit, so if you’re staying in the Old Towns ensure you’re in a quiet spot.
The days I spent in the small towns of Trogir and Šibenik were more up my alley and it would’ve been nice to stay overnight in each of them to enjoy the relaxed vibe, although I’m grateful I did the day trips from Split.
My favourite town along the Dalmatian Coast was Stari Gard and I would’ve loved to spend a few days there just relaxing and enjoying the ambiance. As a local said, it’s a place to enjoy the quiet and relax. Great restaurants known for their fresh seafood, beautiful architecture and no mega yachts or cruise ships.
I’m really glad Intrepid Travel had only a couple of hours in Hvar. It’s a nice town but was so filled with mega yachts and pretentious tourists, it totally turned me off. Very much a party town and people wanting to be “seen”. It’s also way over-priced compared to other places I visited (a coffee was €8!).
I highly recommend traveling by boat along the coast. Lots of swim stops in secluded bays, nice way to see the coastline while chilling in a lounge chair in the sunshine. Intrepid Travel was decently priced with half-board, on-land activities included and the largest group is only 30 people (ours was 22 people). Our guide and crew were friendly and fun, and went above and beyond looking after us. I booked a lower booth twin room with private bathroom and lucked out that I got the room to myself without paying the Single Supplement. Lower berth was a good choice as if the sea was rough it’s better to be lower in the water and I didn’t have people walking past my room all the time like the upper decks. The boat, The Aurora, was kept spotless by the crew and in great shape. Paddle boards, snorkels, inflatable kayaks and floaties were provided at the swim stops. Breakfast was a large buffet every morning and lunch/dinner were always 3 courses (didn’t lose any weight on this trip needless to say). Alcohol and beverages other than water could be purchased on board. I highly recommend the CROATIAN COASTAL CRUISING: Dubrovnik to Split aboard The Aurora trip with Intrepid Travel. I’ve used Intrepid quite a bit over the years and I’ve never been disappointed.
- to get photos of the main sites in Old Towns without hoards of tourists, you’ll need to be out just before 5am as the truck drivers start to do their deliveries just after 5am. It’s early, but so worth it!
- Pro Tip: wear your bathing suit while sightseeing so you can take dips to cool off throughout the day. You also may want water shoes as the beaches are all rock or pebbles which are hard on the feet.
- Croatia is very safe and little crime. I was out with all my camera gear in the early hours and never worried. And when at the beach or swimming, my valuables were safe on shore. That being said, in Split and Zagreb, keep you phone and wallet in your front pockets due to pickpockets
- when traveling I use the Airalo app to purchase an ESIM for the country I’m visiting. Reasonably priced and detailed instructions on how to set it up. And if you run out of data, you can top it up while you’re there
DUBROVNIK
- Airport transfer on arrival: shuttle bus to Old Town leaves 30mins after each flight arrival, drops you at Ploce Gate in Old Town for €10. Purchase ticket at Platanus Travel agent beside baggage claim area or online at platanus.hr/shuttle-bus/ OR Uber/taxi which is approx €50
- Luggage storage: Bounce Luggage Storage. Must book online at bounce.com. Can also store luggage at tourist info.
- Accommodation: I stayed at an Airbnb in Old Town. The place was great other than it was beside a bar and I was woken each night by loud music and drunkards until I clued and slept with the windows shut and air con on. Old Town 1 Bedroom Apartment and hosted by Ksenia. The price was reasonable and she offered a free refund.
- Purchase the Dubrovnik Pass (day pass is same cost as admission to Old City Walls & covers transportation as well. Cost: approx 40€ for one day, 50€ for 3 days or 60€ for 7 days. Old City Walls admission is €35 alone so will save money. Purchase online at: dubrovnikpass.com. Allows one time entry to certain sites and ticket discounts at other sites. Multi-day pass must be used on consecutive days. Entry to City Walls, several museums & galleries included. Discounts to several tours (check website). Discounted entry to Lokrum Nature Reserve, Sokol Fortress, Dubrovnik Symphony, Rector’s Palace, Lazareti, Ston Walls. Discounts at some restaurants & gift shops (see website). Free local bus transportation (lines No 1-9). Tickets obtained on board of initial trip if you have the Dubrovnik Card. Keep the ticket for all further rides as you can’t get another one. Scan your bus ticket each time you ride. Contact customer at info@dubrovnikpass.com or +385 20 638 207
- Restaurants may only take cash so be prepared
- Check if Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra is performing. Usually at Rector’s Palace. Get discount w/ City Pass. Purchase online at ulaznice.hr or in person at DSO office (Slanica, Svetog Dominika 9).
- Spend the day on Lokrum Island (15 min ferry ride departing from Old City Port every 1hr starting at 9am) and then every 30 mins after 11am. Check the schedule posted where you purchase tickets. Purchase ferry tix directly at the pier (avoid others trying to sell you tix). Tix for Lokrum Island are €30 (20% discount w/ 3 day Dubrovnik Pass). Explore the abandoned monastery, look for the Iron Throne from Game of Thrones inside the monastery, climb the hill to Fort Royal for stunning view of Dubrovnik, cool off with a swim at the numerous swim spots along the coast.
- Highly recommend booking a dinner or cooking class w/ locals Marija & Zlatko Papak and their family. Lasts hours and you get to try local wine & liqueurs & lots of local food incl a traditional dish called Peka. $100US. Book at dubrovnikeatwithlocals.com
- City Walls Best time to visit is in morning. Open 8-7:30pm June 1 to July 31. Or go 2hrs prior to sunset. Three entrances to City Walls: Pile Gate just to the left of the Church of the Holy Saviour (has the most stairs), Ploce Gate near St Luke Fort and at St John’s Fortress beside Maritime Museum (least busy). A lot of steep stairs at all entrances so wear proper shoes. Entire walk takes 2hrs. Must walk counterclockwise and follow direction to avoid being turned back at checkpoints. Keep tickets handy as they’ll be checked periodically. Avoid accidentally exiting at one of the entrances as you can’t get back in with the same ticket. Check hours @ www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr
- Cable car to Mount Srd just prior to sunset. (beautiful view of the city) 27€ round trip. Tix purchased at lower cable station. Check hours at dubrovnikcablecar.com
SPLIT
- Airport transfer from Split includes several options: Pleso Prijevoz bus company departs from Autobusni Kolodvor (bus station) beside the port in Old Town. See schedule at ak-split.hr/en/departures-from-split/. One way ticket €8. Travel time approx 45 mins. Airport shuttle bus operated by Croatia Airlines departs from Autobusni Kolodvor (bus station). See schedule at ak-split.hr/en/departures-from-split/. One way ticket €8. Have to pay in cash at the ticket office. Uber/Taxi
- purchase local transit bus tickets from ticket booths at major bus stations, most newsstands or ticket machines at some of the bus stations or from the Promet Split app (cheaper than from bus driver). Can purchase daily ticket for €4. Show ticket to driver and stamp it at machine behind driver’s booth
- Luggage storage: Bounce Luggage Storage. Must book online at bounce.com
- Accommodation: I stayed at an Airbnb in Old Town which was a great location and not too noisy. The shower was quite small but had a full kitchen and plenty of space for a reasonable price. Apartment in the Heart of Old Town hosted by Mila.
- Diocletian’s Palace. Can see these sites for free: Palace, Golden Gate (main entrance to Old Town), Iron Gate, Jupiter’s Temple (exterior), black Sphinx (entrance of cathedral), Peristil (main courtyard of palace), Silver Gate (east gate of palace), Vesitbul (rotunda opens up to sky). Need Yellow Ticket €10 to visit interior of Saint Domnius Cathedral (oldest cathedral in the world & Treasury. Option to climb bell tower of cathedral for view of the city (buy combined ticket if wanting to climb tower). If you want to really enjoy the palace in peace and quiet without stag parties and unruly tourists, I would suggest going very early in the morning. Totally worth it
- TROGIR (coastal town 40-60 mins by car/bus or 1hr by ferry). Gorgeous, tiny town that you can explore in a half-day. Go early and visit Kamerlengo Fortress (open daily 9-8pm, €2 entry), St Lawrence Cathedral, Trogir Town Hall, Cipiko Palace, the town Loggia (within city’s main square), marina. Bus is 2-4€ each way. Book tix ahead of time with FlixBus or take the local bus Promet where you can buy ticket from driver or at station (lots of stops so takes twice the time). Of note: Croatians aren’t known for being on time so often the bus is late unless you catch the first one of the day
- ŠIBENIK (coastal town 90 mins by car/bus). Beautiful Old Town (lots of stairs). Go early and visit St John The Baptist, St Michael’s Fortress, Church of The Holy Spirit, Church of St Francis, Church of The Assumption, Saint James Cathedral, Church of Saint Barbara. Bus is €10 each way. Book tix ahead of time with FlixBus
