Mexico City – Dia de Los Muertos

TIPS:

  • call 911 in emergency
  • call 55 5658 1111 for assistance with non-emergent situations
  • tourist hotline call 55 52867097 ext 2104 or 2309, Mon-Fri 9Fri 9-6pm
  • avoid these neighbourhoods:  The Ciudad Neza, Iztapalapa, Doctores, Tepito
  • after dark, avoid walking alone in unfamiliar areas, don’t carry expensive looking items (cameras, jewellery), don’t display phone and avoid headphones
  • take Ubers at night instead of public transport
  • pack for cool weather during Day of the Dead
  • bring local candies for kids during Day of the Dead (they don’t do door-to-door trick or treating) 
  • check mexicocity.cdmx.gob.mx for Day of the Dead festivities
  • Day of the Dead parade, grab a spot on Reforma Avenue several hours beforehand to get a good view
  • check when the Catrinas Parade is on Facebook (look for Mega Procesion de las Catrinas 2024)
  • ask locals before taking their photos especially in the cemeteries
  • Free wifi spots all over the city.  No limits on use but limited to how many people can log on at oncem

TRANSPORTATION:

  • From airport, prepay with an authorized taxi service inside the terminal.  Uber will offer to pick you up from sidewalk 
  • Can take Metro to city centre from airport
  • Around the city, can use Metro or Metrobus.  Traffic is can be brutal so Metro better option sometimes.  Can purchase Integrated Transit card at Metro station ticket window, light rail ticket windows or from machine in any Metrobus station.  You pay the price of the card plus the amount you want on the card (card is 15 pesos).  You can refill the card at any of the purchase points.  
  • Most metro lines have wifi.  Metro runs 5am-midnight weekdays, 6am-midnight on Saturdays, 7am-midnight on Sundays and Holidays. 5 pesos per ride.  I found it really easy to navigate and convenient
  • Metrobus are large red buses.  6 pesos per ride (no cash, only prepaid card).  No free transfer between Metro and Metrobus but do have 2hrs to transfer between Metrobus lines.  

NEIGHBOURHOODS:

  • San Rafael and Santa Maria La Riberia (electic and art scene)
  • Coyoacan (trendy & artsy)
  • La Roma 
  • La Condesa
  • Centro Historico

ACCOMODATION:

  • I chose to stay outside of the city in the Coyocan barrio at an Airbnb called Casa Tamayo.  It’s a quieter neighbourhood with good restaurants, safe and walkable. 

Oct 27  @ 2pm – The Mega Procession of Catrinas 2024 will take place on October 27 , the starting point will be the Glorieta del Ángel de la Independencia (check Mexico City website for when events are happening as the dates change every year)

Centro Historico District

  • visit Zocalo (central plaza), Palacio de Bellas Artes, Metropolitan Cathedral, Parque Alameda, Templo Mayor, Mercado San Juan, Templo de Ehecatl, Casa del Marques del Apartado, Gran basamento mexica, Calmecac Ruins, Palacio de Axayacatl, Santo Domingo Temple, Senor de la Expiracion Chapel
  • look for ofrednas (remembrance altars) in central plaza.  The ofrenda contest is in Plaza Santo Domingo, a 10 min walk from Zocalo
  • indigenous people will be performing traditional dance routines around the plaza and Cathedral
  • look for the shamans and dancers in traditional costumes in Zocalo
  • get a “catrina” face paint in Zocalo, Coyoacan or Xochimilco area (approx $3-11US).  Go early (10am) to avoid long lines.  
  • walk the Paseo de la Reforma grand boulevard.  Passes by some of the city’s tallest buildings  and will have events and installations for Day of the Dead.  Weekend before, art installations such as giant sugar skulls, alebrijes and towering catrina figures.
  • Panteon de San Fernando is located in the heart of Mexico City.  Open Oct 31-Nov 5th for Day of the Dead.  Performers wander thru the cemetery (some of the theatrics are less customary than traditional Mixquic) 
  • Basilica of Our Lady Guadalupe (famous complex.  Pilgrimages to this site.  Well worth the visit.  Can take the Metro)

La Condesa & Coyoacan Districts

  • La Condesa neighbourhood.  Gorgeous architecture, lots of eateries and shops
  • visit Plaza of Coyoacan, Jardin Centenario Plaza, Plaza Hidalgo, Plaza de la Conchita and the food markets.
  • look for the ofrendas and artisan markets
  • Day of the Dead festivities wlil be taking place around the two main squares in Coyoacan:  Plaza Hildalgo and Jardin Centenario.
  • lunch at Tortas don Coyote or Tostadas Coyoacan or street food at Antojitos Mexicanos Market.
  • visit La Casa Azul (the Blue House).  Most famous building in Mexico City (was the home of artist, Frida Kahlo).  Should have a massive ofrenda
  • Panteon San Jose located south of La Roma District is low-key, but authentic atmosphere
  • Panteon Civil de Dolores (largest cemetery near Chapultepec Park).  Main access is on Avenida Constituyentes.  
  • Panteon Frances De La Piedad (most beautiful cemetery.  Open 9-6pm.  No Day of the Dead festivities here)
  • visit Chapultepec Park at night to see the Iluminando Almas (“Illuminated Souls”).  Enter at the Puerta de los Leones entrance.  Follow the route to see floral arrangements, giant skulls and ofrendas (I went here but didn’t see any giant skulls or floral arrangments)
  • evening salsa in Parque Mexico.  Locals gather here most nights for dancing

Xochimilco District

  • visit Xochimilco neighbourhood 28km from Mexico City.  Approx $15-20US for Uber on way (canals and many festivites during Day of the Dead).  Boat rides on a trajinera thru canals.  Boats usually run from 9-5pm during the week and stay open later on weekends.  Go to Embarcadero Nuevo Nativatas Xochimilco to rent a boat (best dock and most popular with locals).  Ignore the tour companies that will stalk you as soon as you arrive as the canals they go on aren’t as festive or as well maintained.  The prices are fixed and posted on a board near the dock.  Be sure to have cash!
  • visit Cementerio Xilotepec (2nd most visited cemetery).  Usually open 8-3pm but hours may be extended during Day of the Dead

EATS:

  • El Balcon del Zocalo (good food and views of the Zocalo)
  • La Casa de las Sirenas (overlooks the Zocalo)
  • Cafe Regina (good breaky in Centro area)
  • Pasteleria Ideal (amazing bakery in Centro with best pan de muerto)
  • Los Callejeros (great tacos in Centro)
  • Lardo (La Condesa barrio with fabulous breakfast at good price)
  • Las Costillas de la Condesa (La Condesa barrio)
  • El Ovidado (Coyocan barrio for breakfast)
  • Moheli (Coyocan barrio for lunch)
  • Pizza del Perro Negro 3 Cruces (good pizza but get it to go if you don’t want to listen to loud metal music)