I flew into Ilulissat from Copenhagen with Air Greenland but you can also fly through Reykjavik, Iceland with Iceland Air. Be prepared to have flights delayed for lengthy periods of time or even cancelled for days due to the extreme weather conditions within Greenland. The conditions in Nuuk (the main hub for flight) can be fine but north can be completely socked in. I lucked out and didn’t have issues but when I was leaving Ilulissat I wasn’t sure if I was going to be able to make my connecting flight in Nuuk and then my onward flight home from Copenhagen due to numerous flights being cancelled. Several people in my group were bumped from their flights and didn’t make connections. The airport is tiny with one check-in counter for Air Greenland and one for Iceland Air so arrive early. Iceland Air was very strict about weight and weighed all carry-on baggage. People with lots of camera gear had to check their gear which was a bit stressful. Air Greenland didn’t seem as concerned but I still tucked my camera bag at my feet while checking in. Keep in mind the planes flying out of Ilulissat are small, 25 seat planes, so try to keep your luggage weight to a minimum to ensure boarding without issue.
Ilulissat has a population of 5000 and accommodation is limited so if you’re not going with a tour or photography workshop, book well in advance during summer when it’s at its busiest. We stayed at Arctic Hotel which had basic rooms, a beautiful patio with sea views and large restaurant. It’s a 20 minute walk outside of the town or there’s a shuttle you can catch from the hotel for 15 DKK.
I did a 6 day photography workshop with Iceland Photo Tours (Red Sails in Greenland) which is ideal if capturing unreal photos during the midnight sun is your goal. The group was split in half so two boats sailed out each night with two professional photographers on board. On my trip, we had Raymond Hoffman and Vincenzo Mazza who were instrumental in finding us the best locations each night and assisting us with compositions. You can book through their website: https://iceland-photo-tours.com/
I opted for an afternoon tour with Hans to take a few of us to Oqaatsut, a tiny village of 29 locals that’s only accessible by boat. Picturesque, colourful houses and full of character it’s a photographer’s dream. Sled dogs howling upon your approach and super friendly locals. If you do visit, please be respectful of the locals privacy and DO NOT look inside their homes or approach the adult sled dogs. I would recommend at least 3 hours for your visit. Do have lunch at the little restaurant. We didn’t plan on a long enough stay and missed out. You can contact Hans through WhatsApp at +299 23 60 00 to book or through his website: https://www.greenlandseasafari.com. He’s an informative, fun guide and was really patient with all our photo stop requests enroute.
I visited Ilulissat at the end of July and experienced all kinds of weather including sunshine, heavy fog, misty rain and winter temperatures. Be prepared and bring wet weather clothing along with winter layers!
Greenland is very expensive and I was glad for the breakfast buffet being included. I shopped at the local grocery store and made sandwiches from the breakfast buffet for lunches to cut down on food costs.
Although it’s an expensive destination, it’s also a once in a lifetime experience and worth every penny. An adventure I’ll never forget!
