Oaxaca - Dia de Los Muertos

October 31 is All Saints Eve

November 1 is All Saints Day or Day of the Little Angels, honours the children who have died

November 2 is Day of the Dead, when families go to the cemetery to decorate the graves of loved ones

FROM THE AIRPORT:

When you enter the Arrival Hall after leaving baggage claim, you’ll see a row of rental car agencies on each side of the Hall. Walk past them and on the right side between the two Exits and across from a restaurant, you’ll come to a kiosk with the word “TAXI” in big letters. Can book a private taxi to historic centre for $465 pesos or a “collectivo” (a shuttle van) for $120 pesos.

TO THE AIRPORT:

book a taxi using DiDi app (like Uber). Can pay cash or add your credit card info to app. Always ask the driver’s name to ensure its correct taxi as licence plates are usually incorrect. The price quoted on DiDi is NOT always correct.
book shared shuttle on Get Your Guide. Reserve at least 2 days in advance

TIPS:

need cash. Many places don’t take cards
bring make-up remover wipes if you want to get your face painted
dress modestly
Ask before taking a local’s photo unless they’re in a parade or exhibition (especially true when visiting cemeteries and with the flower venders at the mercado)

NEIGHBOURHOODS:

Jalatlaco – trendy, colourful w/ famous pink hotel City Centro Hotel Oaxaca

Xochimilco – most historic

Centro – heart of the city

ACCOMODATION:

stay in Xochimilco or Jalatlaco barrio. Really nice neighbourhoods and not crazy busy as Centro. Everything’s walkable

Oct 31st

pick up schedule of events from the tourist booth located near the main Cathedral near the Zocalo (Town Square)
visit the Cathedral, Compani de Jesus church & Basilica del la Soledad.
Plaza de la Constitucion, Mercado 20 de Noviembre (food market w/ best Oxacan cuisine), Mercado Benito Juarez (local artisans)
Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca, Biblioteca Publica Central and the botanical garden (the Cultural Centre of Santo Domingo)
for face painting during Day of the Dead celebrations, walk along Alcalá (the walking street) south of Santo Domingo Church. There are lots of artists offering their services.
to see ofrendas in local homes and shops head to Calle Macadonio Alcala
visit Xochimilco Cemetery at dusk (smaller & calmer than others)
visit Jalatlaca to watch the comparsa (starts around 7pm). Starts at Templo de San Matías Jalatlaco

Nov 1st

OR head to giant celebration off the beaten path to the San Agustin Etla Oaxaca Day of the Dead comparsa. Has the biggest, and most wild comparsa and most beautiful cemetery.
How To Get To Etlas Murteadas:
Since you will arrive at night, a taxi is the best way to get to Etla for Day of the Dead. It’s about a 40-minute drive from the center of Oaxaca, so it’s best to organize a group to share the cost.
hire a taxi for the entire night so that they are available when you are ready to go back to Oaxaca City. In the years prior to 2020, the muerteada in Etla drew a crowd of more than 3,000 people, so difficult finding an available taxi in a sea of people.

Nov 2nd

most low-key day of the holiday (many restaurants/shops will close early or not be open at all today).
Visit Pantheon de San Miguel (today it’s busy with lots of families decorating graves, live music, picnicking and often a festive atmosphere. Be very respectful about taking photos/video. Ask beforehand. If you go after sunset, a lot of the graves will be candlelit)
Be sure to check out the market at the entrance/exit of the cemetery. It’s full of street food & carnival rides
Can do a day tour to Monte Alban, Alebrijes, Cuilapan and San Bartolo with Get Your Guide

EATS:

Moogõne – Cocina de época (really good food at reasonable prices, happy hours and friendly staff). Rooftop seating
Santa Hierba (good food, nice rooftop patio, great service, yummy lemonade)
A.M. Siempre Cafe (amazing pancake breakfast, free wifi, great service, nice shaded patio and rooftop terrace. Best breakfast I had while in Oaxaca)

Oaxaca – Dia de Los Muertos