I love the place I’m staying at except for the rock hard bed. I honestly may has well spread a sheet over the tile floor for all the good a mattress is doing me. My poor old back. I give up trying to sleep and pack my bag with everything I need for the day, and head out for sunrise. My plan is to walk/hike the 12km to Mandrakia Beach and then get a taxi back to Pollonia.
My first beach stop is Pachena and its deserted and gorgeous. The wind is whipping through my hair and gusting up to 65km/hr. I can feel it pushing me from behind and I don’t dare get too close to the cliff’s edge. I’m having a hard time staying upright and holding my camera steady. I won’t be using my tripod if this wind keeps up.
I continue on to Alogomandra and Mytakas Beaches and it’s endless fine, yellow sand and waves crashing against the shore. I don’t know my geology but I think all of this used to be underwater a very, very long time ago as I seem to walking over old coral formations. I can see white cliffs far off in the distance and I think this is the famous Sarakiniko Beach and shipwreck. There seems to be a trail along the coastline and I opt for this instead of continuing along the road. The Greeks aren’t known for giving way to pedestrians and when they cut the corners, I have to leap into the dirt on the side of the road to avoid getting hit by a side mirror. Maniacs! Gone are the days of the friendly drivers of Mykonos who offered me rides.
I’ve gone through a litre of water already. The wind seems to be sucking all the moisture out of me but at least it’s lowered the temperature a bit and I’m not getting my retinas seared by the sun. Pee break behind a bush and I urinate all over the toe of my shoe. You have got to be kidding me🙄. I blame the wind and thankful that at least they’re Gortex so my foot isn’t soaked.
Walking along the coastline, the landscape changes to what I would describe as what walking on the moon would be like. The super fine granules of dirt are bleached brilliant white and there are weird formations and craters. I wish I was a better photographer so I knew how to capture this out of this world sight.
Oh joy. I find a naked older gentleman setting up his beach paraphernalia in a small cove. I make a point of not making eye contact and just put my head down and stride past at full speed. I would have preferred to not have the image seared into my brain but in all fairness this place is deserted, so why shouldn’t he be able to tan all his bits?
The wind is whipping up the grains of white dirt and every orifice is caked in it. My camera gear is taking a beating and I have to continually wipe the lenses of the sea salt spray. My hair is a complete rat’s nest despite having it tied back for most of the morning, and I end up having to cut out a knot as I can’t comb it out. Each time I open my camera bag, it gets filled with sand and my spinach pie seems to have some added crunch to it. Despite all of this, I love it. You can feel the raw power of nature and I’m at the mercy of it.
I come to Sarakiniko Beach and it’s unreal. The sun is reflecting off of the massive white cliffs and I have to put my sunglasses on to block out the glare. Because I’m here in September the crowds are minimal despite it being later in the afternoon, so I’m able to take some photos without bothering anyone. Some shots I have to forgo as I don’t trust the wind not to knock over my tripod and camera. These are the times that I wish I was traveling with someone else. An amateur photographer, or someone who was as crazy as I am about capturing moments would be ideal.
A young Russian couple are struggling to set up their flimsy tripod with their iPhone attached and I can’t bare to watch the ordeal any longer so I go over and offer to take their photo. I snap a couple and the young man says, “And now we kiss!” I panic thinking he’s going to lay one on me in thanks, but he kisses his girlfriend and shouts “Take photo!” at me.
Later, I come across another group of Russians who are taking photos in the entryway of a cave where I had just finished doing my amazing Instagram-worthy shots. Ha! A portly Russian guy in his late sixties wearing a speedo clambers up to the cave. He props up one leg on the wall at hip height while doing the Superman pose and juts his chin high in the air. He yells, “Photo!!” His girlfriend rushes up with her phone and proceeds to take numerous photos while he switches from one ridiculous pose to another. I can’t help myself laughing and I wish I’d had the foresight to video the debacle.
I decide I’m going to cut my walk short and instead of continuing to Mandrakia, I’ll save the cab fare and walk back to Pollonia. By the time I get to the last hill, I’m beat. The temperature has increased and I’ve run out of water. I know I’m close and I push on. I see the sign for Pollonia and do a little dance on the side of the road. I started my walk at 7am and it’s now 4pm. That’s a long day of being in motion even if I am Forest Gump.
It takes me an hour to empty my bag of all the dirt and clean all my camera gear. I rinse off my shoes that I peed on (ugh) and get myself cleaned up before making myself a Greek salad with some pita. I plan on being horizontal for the remainder of the evening.
