The Gaucho Life

I’m up before dawn arrives and tiptoe to the kitchen with my candle to make myself a tea.  The sky begins to lighten and I grab my camera bag to see if I can find a sunrise.  I walk towards the front gate and see a skunk scampering across the rutted road with its tail high in the air.  A flock of sheep eye me warily and run off bleating as soon as I get near.  A narrow layer of mist covers the lower pastures and is lit up yellow and orange.  

I return to the estancia assuming everyone will be awake but find Juan alone in the kitchen.  I ask if I can join him and he says,

“Of course Sunshine.  Sit, sit.”

We chat quietly while I cook up my eggs and bacon on the wood stove.  The others awaken one by one and sleepily come into the kitchen in search of coffee.    After breakfast, Juan gives us the plan for the day.  Those of us that will be riding are to meet in the saddling area for instructions.  We will be responsible for getting our horses ready each morning.

Pritesh and Audrey have never been on a horse so Juan is very thorough in explaining how to behave around them and what not to do.  

• a horse’s ears are their mood barometer so pay attention
• always approach the horse from the left, saddle from the left and mount from the left.  Basically the right doesn’t exist
• don’t stand directly behind the horse if you don’t want to get kicked….

Bilinga brings us a selection of mounts based on our skill level and I’m presented with Otono.  He’s got a little fire to him and he sizes me up out of the corner of his eye while I saddle him.  When I cinch the strap tight, he turns towards me with his ears back showing displeasure.  

Melany, Audrey, Pritesh and myself will be riding this morning and Dave, George and Helen have opted to hike behind us.  I’ve ridden quite a bit but it was over twenty years ago so I’m pleasantly surprised when I mount Otono with ease.  We’re riding at a walking pace this morning while everyone adjusts to their horse and learns how to ride.  I urge Otono into a trot to catch up to Juan and Bilinga says to Melany that I look very relaxed and I’m a good rider which makes me flush with pride.  

The countryside is dotted with small hills and rocky outcrops.  Cattle raise their heads while chewing their cud staring at us as we ride past.  Long, narrow tracks with a line of ants carrying foliage come to an end at large black hills that rise up out of the dirt.  When we return to the ranch we unsaddle our horses and eagerly await lunch.  Juan is cooking pork chops on the outdoor fire pit and Helen has made us a tossed salad.  It tastes delicious and I help myself to seconds.  

During siesta, I grab a hammock and promptly fall asleep in the sunshine as it sways in the breeze.  Siesta time is the law in Uruguay and usually lasts for three hours.  In town, all the shops close and on the ranch everyone takes a nap after lunch.  Melany wakes us in a panic as we’re supposed to meet Juan and Bilinga at 2:30pm in the paddock and we’ve overslept.  We all race to where they’re waiting  and Juan explains the plan for the afternoon.  We will be herding a flock of 300 sheep to a corral so we can deworm the lambs.  

With much help from the two border collies and Bilinga, we manage to herd the sheep to the corral without too many mishaps.  The dogs do most of the work and are so smart.  Juan explains that it takes about seven months to train a young collie but it also learns from the older dogs.  They have boundless energy and seem to love to work.  When a collie gets old Juan will put the word out to the other farmers that he’s in need of a puppy and he’ll be given one for free and he’ll do the same when his dog has puppies. 

Juan asks myself, Melany and Helen to assist with the deworming while Pritesh, George and Audrey are responsible for moving sheep from the corral into our small pen once the lambs have been medicated.  Bilinga shows us how to catch and hold the lambs by grabbing either side of their necks and holding their bodies still between our knees.  They’re quick little buggers and do their best to escape our grasp.  We make short work of the 200 lambs that need to be dewormed and Juan gives us an eight out of ten for our efforts.

We herd the flock of sheep back to their pasture and it’s then that I realize I’ve lost my sweatshirt that had been laid across the pommel of my saddle.  God dammit! It’s my only warm piece of clothing and why I didn’t have it tied around my waist I have no idea.  Despite everyone being tired, Juan suggests we retrace our route in an attempt to locate it.  Unfortunately we can’t find it and I call off the search.  Melany has kindly offered me her sweater for the remainder of the trip.

I have a quick shower before heading back out to search for a sunset view and climb a hill near the estancia that has several graves.  It’s not the photo I’m looking for so I head back down to the low lands and find a copse of trees.  The sky changes from dark purple and pink to orange and then back to purple with a swath of red.  I’ve never seen anything like it.  Climbing through the wire fence I find the road in the moonlight and make my way back to the ranch, picking my way carefully around rocks and cow patties.

Myself, Melany, Juan and Pritesh eat in the cosy kitchen while the rest of the group eats dinner in front of the TV in the living room.  Juan asks thoughtful questions of all of us and he makes you feel that he’s truly interested in your life and your opinions.  He may not always agree with those opinions and the discussion can get good-naturedly heated but it’s all in good fun.  I really enjoy talking with him and find his sarcastic sense of humour in sync with mine.  

After riding in the fresh air all day, wrangling sheep and eating two helpings of lamb stew I’m ready for bed and call it a night before the generator shuts off.