Last night I reconnoiter Piazza San Marco and as I enter the square, I get a little emotional. I can’t believe I’m actually here. I’ve had this feeling while traveling before when I visited Petra in Jordan and Potala Palace in Tibet. I’m not sure why it gets me teary. A dream fulfilled? How beautiful it is? The square is lit up and I turn in circles taking everything in. St Mark’s Basilica is under renovation so I don’t get to see her in all her splendour but she’s still magnificent. Time for bed.
I’m so excited to be here that I don’t sleep so at 4:30am I grab my camera and head back to Piazza San Marco. Despite the early hour, there are some people out although I’m not sure if they’re still up from last night or early risers. The temperature is warm which bodes for a hot one later today. I’m happy to be out when it’s cool and quiet. A young, drunk guy approaches and offers to take me to his “garden” which is just 5 minutes away. I politely, but firmly, decline.
The gondolas are covered for the night and rock gently in the water. Seagulls and pigeons fight over food scraps left from discarded late night pizzas. City workers with brooms are trundling their bins down the alleyways as they sweep up garbage. Some of the restaurants are starting to set up their patio tables for the morning crowd. Church bells toll.
I’ve set up my tripod with my phone on it near the Doge’s Palace and as I’m taking a photo, a runner goes past and knocks my tripod over with his foot. He has ample room (at least 30 feet) so I’m not sure what he’s doing, but he keeps running!!! Are you kidding me? I yell out,
Thanks for that!
To which he replies over his shoulder,
Sorry.
Luckily my phone is intact and thank god it wasn’t my camera as it would’ve smashed on the stone pavers.
A boat berths at one of the little docks beside me and the stereo is playing Frank Sinatra. What really makes my day is when my absolute favourite song, “At Last” by Etta James comes on next. My morning is complete.
By 9:30am I’ve visited the major sites I want to see in this area and shot a load of photos. Hopefully a couple are keepers. Staying the one night in this hotel worked out really well as I am steps away from St Mark’s Basilica so it was a quick walk this morning. Later I’ll head to my new digs in the Cannaregio area where more of the locals live.
Sitting in the hotel lobby I have a front row seat to the main gondola stop. It’s a hub of activity as the teak taxi boats slowly motor past the gondolas filled with tourists. It looks like chaos but the gondoliers clearly know what they’re doing. They all wear the signature white and black/red striped t-shirt and black pants. While standing at the rear of the boat, a single oar is pushed up against a specifically shaped piece of wood attached to the gondola to maneuver it. They’re not really rowing, but seem to be pushing the oar in a circular motion in the water to move and steer. Looks tricky. I’m glad I booked my gondola ride ahead of time with Luca, who’s supposed to be one of the best, as what I’m looking at doesn’t really seem like an “experience” but more like a tourist trap. Luca has assured me we will go down the quieter canals in his neighbourhood.
After taking the water bus I find myself at my apartment in Cannaregio for the next four days. I love it! It’s right on a small canal and I have a little patio with a view. It’s decorated beautifully and my host, Sofia, is very chic.
I wander the neighbourhood and I like it’s laid back vibe. It’s not as busy as San Marco and less ritzy shops. As I’m walking I’m approached by a group of young guys including one that’s dressed as a pig. They explain that he’s to be married this month and he has to ask women for tokens of money while dressed up. I give him a 1euro and sign his shirt wishing him luck in married life.
I swing by a market and purchase some meats, cheeses, grapes and mini bottles of Prosecco for a little picnic on my patio. I squeeze a chair onto the tiny outdoor space and munch on snacks while sipping my bubbly and watch the world go by on the canal. I could get used to this. This is the life for me.
