I’m walking so quickly, I’m almost running. With my camera bag. Last minute I decide I’m going to try and see the lunar eclipse which is supposed to occur between 4:30am and 5:37am. The only place I can see on the map that I may be able to view the horizon is on the mainland near the fish market.
As I’m hastily winding my way through the narrow alleys (thank god for Google maps because this town is literally a maze) I can see the blood red moon mid-horizon and it’s quickly changing to a sliver of its original self. Am I going to make it? Should I stop and take a picture of the partial eclipse or keep going and hope I find a spot to see the full one on the horizon? I keep running. Sweat is running down my face, my shirt is stuck to my back and my soggy socks are squishing around in my shoes. What the hell am I doing?
I make it to the main ferry dock and now I can’t see the moon at all. I check my bearings with my compass and I’m in the right spot but the moon as pulled a disappearing act. There’s a bit of cloud cover on the horizon which I think has screwed my chances of seeing the eclipse. God dammit!! I wait ten more minutes but to no avail. I drop my head in despair. All that effort and nothing to show for it. What a major bummer.
I slowly trudge past the fish market (it’s so early, even the fish aren’t up) and head towards the train station which is near my apartment. As I’m walking across the bridge that links the mainland with Venice I see the sun coming up and it’s a massive fireball. The backdrop sucks but it’s such a sight that I snap a few photos anyway.
I have two hours until I need to meet for my St Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace tour so I may as well take advantage of the nice morning and wander the streets. I can’t get enough of the reflections in the water of the smaller canals. I try to capture some video and shots of daily Venetian life as this is when the locals are out walking their dogs and the bigger boats are bringing in supplies. The porters unload the barges laden with goods and then transport them by hand trolleys. To get up and down the stairs of the bridges there are little wheels at the front of the trolley. When they reach the bottom of the first stair, they turn it around so the little wheels are in the front, heft up the bottom wheels and then ratchet their way to the top. Once at the top, they turn the trolley around again and do it in reverse. These guys must be so fit. They’re the one person you want to get out of the way when they’re trotting through the lanes with their heavy loads. You can hear them yelling as they come up behind you,
Attenzione!! Attenzione!!
I quickly eat some breakfast back at the apartment and then run out for my tour. It’s 9am and I’ve already walked almost 10km and feel like I’ve had a full day.
The Basilica is impressive and decked out with intricate, massive mosaics comprised of fingernail sized pieces of colourful glass. It took the artists years to create them. The Basilica is under renovation due to water damage. As we enter I can see the water lapping at the bottom of the columns. It’s been like this for years and the salt water is starting to erode the marble. It’s a fact of life when you build at sea level and the water levels continue to rise. They’re trying to protect the cathedral but it’s a constant battle with nature. The buildings are constructed in such a way that they actually move since the water is tidal. The canals have a maximum depth of 1.5 meters unless it’s flooded. You can see spaces in some of the joints of the columns and walls and it’s to give the building a little “flex”. So clever!
The Doge’s Palace is decorated with massive paintings. Unlike in Rome, there aren’t frescos here as the salt in the air would destroy them. They’re an impressive sight and I’m still flummoxed as to how they would paint the ceilings without being in great discomfort. I see holes in the walls throughout the building and the guide, Elena, tells me that there used to be a lion’s head in those spots and the hole was the lion’s mouth. The purpose of these heads was for the citizens to accuse their neighbours of wrong doing. Each lion had a specific crime assigned to it and you wrote a name on a piece of paper and put it in the lion’s mouth.
The Doge’s Palace used to be where the government was located and The Doge dolled out punishments. We visit the jail and I would not have wanted to be imprisoned here. Not that I want to be imprisoned anywhere, but this is especially horrible. The “cells” are all stone so if you’re in the basement you’re freezing your ass off and if you’re in the upper portion, you’re sweating your ass off. Basically a lose-lose situation. The door for the maximum security prisoners has five locks and the wooden door is at least ten inches thick. No one’s gettin’ out of there…EVER. Apparently, Casanova escaped one of the the cells but it wasn’t that one.
After the tour I go in search of cheap, but delicious pizza, and then take a load off in my previous ritzy hotel’s lobby. It’s especially muggy and hot today and I need a few minutes to recharge before I go battle the crowds and heat. I watch the ebb and flow of gondoliers pass the window and am impressed with the deft way they maneuver the tippy boats.
I decide to find a church located in Old Venice and start my trek. It’s away from the crowds and I’m lost in alleys and streets I haven’t been down yet. Old Venice is a hidden delight. Zero crowds and the older buildings have so much colour and character. I’m glad I found this little gem. The canals are picturesque and the locals are super friendly.
A few hours later I get back to my apartment and I am done. Like literally, done. I’ve been on my feet for almost twelve hours minus the two short breaks I had. When I download my photos from my camera I get confused as I think a bunch of them are from yesterday, but no, that was this morning. It’s like I’ve experienced two days in one as it seems so long ago. Being awake since 2:30am has messed up my internal clock and I’m not thinking straight. I make myself a smorgasbord of cheeses, meats, crackers, grapes and apple slices with a side of Prosecco. Dessert is a cream filled croissant. My diet has taken a hiatus this trip but whatever.
Big day tomorrow. A day trip to some nearby islands and then my gondola ride with Luca!
