I wake up to steady rain and thick fog. In five days, we’ve had sun, wind, and now this. The Arctic has given us everything it’s got—and I kind of love that.
A small group of us heads out with Hans in his motorboat to Oqaatsut, a tiny village about 20 kilometers north of Ilulissat. The ride is smooth and beautiful, and when we arrive, I feel like I’ve stepped into a painting. Oqaatsut has a population of just 29 people—plus roughly the same number of sled dogs. It used to be a whaling station during Greenland’s colonial period and still holds onto that layered, weathered charm. Colorful wooden houses dot the shoreline, and the whole place oozes character.
I wander around slowly, camera in hand, hunting for hidden gems—weathered sheds, crooked fences, little pops of color in the gray light. I wish I’d planned better. There’s a tiny hotel here, and if I’d thought ahead, I would’ve stayed overnight to really soak it in. It’s the kind of place that deserves more than a couple of hours.
The lighting is incredible today. Overcast skies make the icebergs turn a deep, glowing blue, and the reflections on the water are surreal. From Hans’s boat—lower to the water and way more agile—we get new angles that we just can’t from the sailboats. He’s an excellent guide too, full of stories and facts, pointing out things I’d never notice on my own. I’m so glad I talked to Raymond about my desire to visit this village and his call to Hans to help us out. It’s hands down the best afternoon I’ve had in Ilulissat.
Back on the water later that night, the skies put on one last show. Soft pink clouds stretch across the horizon and the sea is completely still. It’s perfect—until just after midnight, when the fog rolls in and swallows everything. Just like that, it’s over. We head back early.
Now I’m lying here wondering if I’ll even get out tomorrow. The past couple of days, flights have been grounded for fog and weather delays. If I can’t get to Nuuk, I’m missing my flight home too. Raymond’s on the same flight and says we just need to have a positive attitude. According to him, if we believe hard enough, the plane will come.
Fingers crossed. Either way, I’ll leave here full of memories I wouldn’t trade for anything.
