I’m awoken abruptly by the liquor delivery outside my bedroom window this morning and I groggily stumble to the kitchen to make breakfast. I take a peek outside and cases of alcohol have been left at the door of a restaurant that isn’t open. I look around and no one’s in sight. If a delivery driver did that at home, everything would be stolen in seconds.
I take the first ferry to Lokrum Island. It’s a quick 15 minute ride to the uninhabited island and I’m looking forward to less crowds and some quiet. I explore an abandoned monastery and find a peacock with colourful plumage posing in front of an arched window cut into the stone. He preens while I snap a few photos and then struts right up to me looking for snacks.
Large, lava boulders line the coastline and there’s numerous swim spots with metal ladders leading into the sea. The water is bright aquamarine in the shallows and royal blue in the deep. Varieties of small fish swim in the shallows and I dip my toes in. Continuing on, I hike up a steep, rocky incline to Fort Royal and I’m rewarded with a stunning view of Dubrovnik. The orange, tiled roofs glow in the sunlight.
I cool off in the water before walking back to the ferry port. The sea is so briny that you can float as if you’re in the Dead Sea and flecks of salt coat my skin after drying in the sun. The ferry arrives and I reluctantly head back to the throng of humans in Old Town. I was speaking to a shop keeper yesterday and she said in the winter Dubrovnik is a ghost town. Most of the shops and restaurants are closed and the locals take the opportunity to relax after a hectic tourist season.
As I’m nearing the cathedral I hear music and singing. It’s a wedding celebration out front of the church, complete with musicians and all the guests belting out traditional Croatian songs! A wooden, round flask filled with liquor is passed around and things get rowdier. A large Croatian flag is being waved over everyone’s heads and a plastic gun shooting tiny bubbles cover the guests in the dance circle.
For dinner I have arranged to go to Local, the home of the Papak family, for a traditional dinner called Peka. What a feast we have! There’s eight Americans traveling together, a couple from Switzerland and myself and we’re met by two of the Papak children who’ll be looking after us this evening. The evening starts with an apéritif served with sweet cantaloupe, cherries and juicy strawberries. We move on to a cheese and meat platter. The prosciutto and cheeses are all locally sourced from farmers in the area. I’ve never tasted such tender and flavourful prosciutto. The quality depends on how long it’s been cured and the salt, and ours has been curing for over three years! I eat way too much fresh focaccia bread dipped in olive oil and salt and I’m not sure how I’m going to still eat the entree. We’re served with endless pours of perfectly paired local white wine and the conversational chatter picks up between everyone. Now comes the main event…Peka. A local Croatian cuisine served at weddings, funerals and celebrations that is slow-cooked in a large metal platter covered with coals. Peka consists of a meat or fish, carrots, potatoes, eggplant and garlic. The veal is so tender you could cut it with a butter knife and it’s absolutely delicious. A local, peppery red wine is served with the entree. And as if we haven’t eaten enough, there’s still dessert! Homemade gelato with an apple-stuffed filo pastry. What an amazing way to celebrate my last night in Dubrovnik. I can not recommend this experience enough.
