I’m awake ridiculously early so wander in the alleys of the oldest part of Split and then to Bacvice Beach. Unfortunately the beach is dirty with refuse and bottles left behind by the previous evening’s revellers. The water is knee-deep out to 200m but this isn’t an area I would be swimming in as the water isn’t nearly as clear as I’ve seen everywhere else. Walking along the cement boardwalk is pleasant and fishermen, dog walkers, joggers and swimmer are out enjoying the cool temperatures of early morning.
I start walking out of the city in search of a beach to spend the day at and after 30 minutes come across Obojena beach. It’s a clean, little pebble beach with crystal clear water filled with local families. A concrete path and piers with ladders into the sea are further south of the beach with groups of elderly women chatting after their morning swim. Next time I visit Croatia, I’m bringing water shoes. The pebble and rocky beaches are killer on the feet and I look like a drunk trying to exit the water.
After way too much sun, I head back to Old Town and go to Šperun for an early dinner. The waiter is a cheeky fellow with a good sense of humour. He suggests I try the fresh mussels in buzzara sauce (olive oil, garlic, seasoning) with a local white wine and it’s delicious. A definite restaurant recommendation.
