Another day in Ulaanbaatar

I head out early in the morning before breakfast to check out a couple of places.  The temperature is a balmy 5 degrees but it feels warmer in the sun.  There’s not a cloud in the sky and the streets are still quiet.  

As I’m standing in front of the Chinggis Khaan Museum I’m approached by two elderly locals.  Their faces are darkly tanned and weatherbeaten.  Slightly stopped posture and shuffling steps, one of the men reaches forward to clasp my right hand with one hand and the left hand supporting my wrist.  He gives a slight bow, saying “Sain uu.  Yuu baina?” (Hello.  How are you?).  I return the greeting and I motion towards the museum stating, “Beautiful!”  They nod in agreement with big smiles and ask me if I’m from America.  I tell them Canada and they both yell “Canada!” in unison.  I guess they like Canada!  They shake my hand again, wish me a good day and continue their morning walk. 

I head back to the hotel for “breakfast” which consists of random food choices.  Bacon, eggs, stir-fried veggies, sticky rice, cake and corn pop cereal.  I make a meal of it and relax for a bit before I meet up with the driver and the three guys on my tour; John, Oliver and Padraig.  Padraig, from Ireland,  I already know as we met in Iceland a few years ago and have kept in touch.  I had mentioned this trip and he jumped on board, bringing along his friend John.  

I see women dressed in local costumes called deels, carrying large bouquets of flowers and our driver Unuruu, advises that the government is giving out medals to women with more than four children.  Interesting 🤫.  I feel like I should be getting a medal for going through menopause but not sure if our Prime Minister would agree.

We head up to a monument perched on a mountain that signifies the independence of Mongolia from Communism and then on to a monastery where we meet with our guide for the day, Tuya.  The monastery and the monks dressed in their dark red robes gives me fond memories of my visit to Tibet.  I hear throat singing coming from a tower attached to one of the outbuildings and see the locals spinning the prayer wheels.

The group splits up for taxi rides to the ger community just outside of the city where the majority of the Mongolian residents live.  The government allows one small plot of land to each family for free and then if you want more land, you need to purchase it.  The dirt roads are narrow and potholed and high fences block out the view of the gers.  There’s electricity but no running water, so the household water is gathered at communal wells.

We visit a “lake” in the midst of the community.  The area used to be the garbage dump until a resident decided to turn it into an aquatic oasis for the community.  There are little paddle boats, oared boats and even a giant swan boat the visitors can use.  The multi-coloured building on the edge of the lake is for students to use as a recreation hub, complete their homework or hang out and is free.

Tuya instructs the taxis to take us back into the city where we take care of some housekeeping…money exchange, local SIM cards for Oliver and Padraig, and my payment for the trip.  Tuya says it’s time for welcome drinks and we head to the restaurant beside my hotel.  She goes over the plan for the next day’s train ride and then heads home to her family. I bring out my little photo album to show Tuya what it’s like where I live and the final photo is one of my Grampa standing in front of ger when he visited Mongolia in the ‘80’s wearing traditional dress. I tell everyone about how his adventures inspired me as a kid to want to visit Mongolia and this a dream coming true. Then I remember that it would be his birthday today and I get a bit choked up. John suggests we raise our glasses to my Grampa and to an excellent adventure. The tears are threatening to spill over.

I’m feeling extra tired today even though last night’s sleep was the best I’ve had since leaving home.  All the walking and being out in the heat has taken its toll the last few days.  Padraig, John and I try a recommended restaurant and I, once again, eat way too much and have to roll myself and my food baby out the door.  There’s great conversation throughout the meal and it reminds me how much I enjoy chatting with like-minded travellers.  H

Early night tonight to get ready for the long day tomorrow.