I have a relaxed morning and catch the train to Corniglia. It’s the only town in Cinque Terre that doesn’t have a harbour. Upon arriving I brace myself for the stairs from the station to the town square…386 to be precise.
I make it to the top and am greeted with the quaintest little town. Finding a deli, I purchase some local cheeses, focaccia and fruit for my breakfast. I wander through the narrow streets looking for a secluded spot in the sun to enjoy my feast. I come to a dead end and there’s a bench with my name on it. I lay out my food, play Fats Waller on my phone speaker and enjoy the view.
With some map reading skills and luck, I find a trail that appears to lead down to the water. I come out of a viaduct and see massive stacked boulders and the open sea. It’s hot already and it’s not yet 11am. It’s going to be a beautiful day.
Hopping the train to Monterosso, this is the last of the five towns of Cinque Terre. It’s well-known for its lido with the orange and green coloured beach umbrellas dotting the sand. A lido is a private beach area where you’re provided with an umbrella and beach chair for a fee. There’s usually a restaurant, toilets and changes areas within. I’m hoping to have a beach day at one of the lidos tomorrow and want to check it out beforehand as I’ve heard they get very busy.
I find the lido and because it’s so nice and I’m feeling lazy, I decide to rent a sun bed and get my tan on. I should’ve looked at the weather coming from behind the mountains because not 30 minutes later it’s a torrential downpour. The one day I didn’t bring my umbrella or jacket 🙄. I hide under the beach parasol hoping it’ll clear up but it just gets worse so I make a run for it to the change room.
I wait it out for a bit and when it lessens I look for a restaurant for lunch before everything shuts. Of course everyone else had the same idea and they’re all full. I’m running between overhangs trying to stay dry but it’s a losing battle. I see a shop selling umbrellas and I grudgingly purchase one thinking of mine sitting in the apartment doing me no good at all.
And as luck would have it, not 5 minutes later the rain abruptly stops and the sun comes out. I curse you weather gods!! Damn you!
A large pizza later, I explore the streets of Monterosso while it stays dry. The sun doesn’t last long and I hear distant thunder. The skies open up and everyone runs for cover. I decide I’ve had enough of this bloody weather and hop the train back to La Spezia. I still have tomorrow to soak up some sun so l here’s hoping the weather forecast is actually correct!
When I arrive in La Spezia the sun is shining and it doesn’t look like it’s rained at all. Was the storm just over Monterosso? I’m so confused.
I take advantage of the sunshine and walk down to the harbour in search of a spritz (an aperitif consisting of Prosecco, bitters and soda). La Spezia redeems herself with a pretty promenade along the water and I find a cafe amidst some palm trees. I people watch, enjoy the view and finish my book.
There’s an elderly Italian couple who sit at the table beside me. He moves the table and chairs out of the sun for his wife who arrives a minute later with her walker. They’re both bundled up in winter coats despite it being mid-20’s. They wait a really LONG time for the waitress to finally serve them but they don’t seem put out about it. When they do order, it’s two ice cream sandwiches served in a basket. He opens one for his wife, turns on some music on his phone and then settles into his ice cream treat. She hasn’t said a word to him the entire time. When their two friends arrive and sit with them, she seems to perk up. I guess after fifty-plus years of marriage there’s only so much you have left to say to one another.
Do I go to Manarola for the sunset tonight or call it a day?
