Yesterday was a chill day spent at a lido in Monterosso soaking up some sun. A very relaxing way to spend my last day in Cinque Terre.
This morning I’m taking the early morning train to Bologna. I have a very short connection in Firenze (6 minutes) and knowing how the Italian trains tend to be late, I’m doubtful I’ll make it. Upon arrival at the station, I see my first train is 5 minutes late so yep, going to miss my connection. As we pull into the station in Firenze, I see my train to Bologna pulling out.
One of the things about this kind of traveling that I sometimes find tiring is the continual problem solving. It’s not like sitting at an all-inclusive where you shut your brain off. You have to be prepared for things to go wrong, figure out how to fix it and roll with the punches.
I hop on another train to the main station in Firenze to sort out another route to Bologna. Thanks to the ItaliaRail staff, I quickly find a different option and board another train that will get me into Bologna just 30 minutes later than my original time.
I arrive in Bologna and it’s hot…like Africa hot. I have a bit of a long walk ahead of me to my B&B lugging 40+ lbs of shit. Why am I not springing for a taxi? Because I’m cheap and stubborn. I stagger up the last few steps to my accommodation, sweating like I’ve run a marathon and am greeted by my hostess. She gasps when she sees me and says,
You did not walk from the station? It is much too hot!
I tell her the last few stairs nearly wiped me out to which she replies,
You didn’t see the elevator?
I’m too freaked out of your tiny elevators and opted to walk the stairs.
She shakes her head and even though I’m three hours early for check-in, she gives me my room so I can get cleaned up. I am beyond grateful and as soon as I dump my bags, I rip off my clothes and jump into a cold shower. Getting organized I head out to explore the University area, not sure how long I’ll last in the muggy, oppressive heat. Fun fact: Bologna University is the oldest western university in the world.
In hindsight I probably should’ve called it a day after my wander and waited for cooler temperatures, but do I do that? Of course not! I decide I’m going to walk 10km (5km of it uphill) to a church. The only saving grace is that almost the entire way is covered with porticos so I get a bit of shade. There’s supposedly 40km of porticos in Bologna and by the end of this day, I’ll probably have walked 39km of them.
I slowly start my uphill trek as I ‘d prefer not to arrive in a puddle of sweat. If I didn’t have my camera bag it wouldn’t be bad, but I can feel the sweat rolling down my face as my big lens and tripod bang against my back. An elderly gentleman that’s half bent over from scoliosis is making his way up gingerly, so I’m slightly embarrassed that I’m huffing and puffing. I don’t even know him and I’m so proud that’s he’s got the tenacity to do this. I look up and see the end. Phew! Didn’t know if I was going to make it. And then my dream of having reached the top is ripped away. It’s just a bend in the portico and now the stairs start. Jesus H Roosevelt Christ!
Locals seem to use this as a workout as there’s lots of people jogging past in gym clothes and cyclists ripping up the hill. No wonder they can get away with eating all the pasta and pizza they want! I see what appears to be the top, but I’m not getting my hopes up after the last time. I have just enough energy to drag myself up the last couple of steps and I’m rewarded with a view of the bright orange facade of the church. Hallelujah!
I enter the church and cold air gently wafts over my face. I gratefully sink to a pew and take my camera bag off. My back is soaking wet. I sit in the peaceful quiet and let my body temperature regulate. Now that I’m here I forget about the uphill slog and enjoy the beauty of the place. As I’m exiting, I see the elderly guy with scoliosis. He made it! Unreal. I start chatting with one of the cyclists that’s reached the top and he tells me that he does the climb on repeat for his workout. I ask him to double me back down the hill and he looks a bit shocked until I tell him I’m kidding.
It’s almost dinner time so I walk back towards my B&B in hopes of finding a spot to eat. By Italian standards it’s only apertivo time, but I’m starved and in need of food, not just booze. Luckily there’s several places in the square right beside my accommodation and I gratefully sit down and order a glass of wine and caprese salad. I love that restaurants can put a bunch of tables out front of their business and it takes over half the square. You feel like you’re part of what’s happening because you’re sitting right in the middle of it.
Early start tomorrow to beat the crowds and then a relaxing afternoon to beat the heat.
