Sunrise in Oia is not to be missed and much more relaxing than fighting the crowds at sunset. Just a few others out and the light was beautiful with pinks, oranges and yellows. It’s amazing how much the lighting changes the colours of the domes and buildings. I find myself energized for the rest of the day after having such a great morning despite the obnoxiously early hour.
At 8:40am Vissily, from Santorini MTB Adventures picks me up, along with six others from the United States, to spend the day on electric assisted mountain bikes exploring South Santorini. We drive to his base of operations in Perissa where he fits all of us with bikes and helmets. After confirming we all know how to ride a bike (apparently he had a group of Chinese tourists that booked his tour but none of them could ride a bike!) we head to the oldest village on the island, Emporio.
I love Emporia with it’s maze of alleyways, miniature doors and beautiful colours. Pirates used to hide in the village back in the day, so the narrow alleys and miniature doors made it difficult for others to attack. We stop for fresh orange juice and sesame and honey coated pistachios. Yum!
We cycle the wine route to the Heart of the Caldera. Santorini is known for it’s wine as the volcanic ash in the soil gives it a unique taste that isn’t found anywhere else. Because of the high winds the island can get and the scant rainfall, the vines aren’t grown the same as at home. Instead, they’re coiled close to the ground to be protected and the coils soak up the morning dew and keep the vines hydrated.
Riding an electric assisted mountain bike is the way to go. I can zip up the hills and the single track trails no problem. I wobble a bit through the thick sand but push through and manage to stay upright. This is my kind of cycling!
We arrive at the Heart of Caldera which is named from the hole cut through the mountain that used to be shaped like a heart. Due to erosion, it’s more like a circle now, but you get a view of the sea while standing inside it that’s outstanding. It’s at this point that Vissily asks us if we felt the 6.5 earthquake the previous evening. “Um, what?! Isn’t 6.5 a fairly significant earthquake??” He laughs and says, “Yes, but we are in the heart of a volcano so it was not our time. Maybe in five months when the volcano erupts again it will be our time.” Interesting take on life…
Vissily has been snapping photos of all of us as we’ve been riding and super keen to get group shots that he will share with all of us at the end of the ride. He’s so enthusiastic about Santorini and it’s contagious. He’s originally from Crete and used to compete in mountain bike races but is now busy with the tours and keeping tabs on his olive farm in Crete. He will work the April to November tourist season before returning to Crete to visit family and check on his house. He has a trip planned to Thailand this winter and is planning to ride his bike from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur! I offer my services as trip photographer and tell him I’m always up for an adventure.
It’s time for lunch and we make our way to Megalochori to his friend’s restaurant. We are treated to a local wine and a plate of three different spreads on fresh bread including fava bean, tomato with garlic and eggplant. Add to that hunks of fresh Parmesan cheese and olives that have been salted and left to marinade for one year, and you have a delicious lunch. Unfortunately we don’t have time to explore Megalochori and I’m disappointed I don’t have another full day on the island so I could return. Vissily says that if he has a friend that will be driving from Oia to Megalochori tomorrow he will let me know so that I can visit again. I could take a taxi but it’s ridiculously expensive and I don’t have time to take the bus.
It’s time to make our way back to Perissa where the black sand beach and sea awaits us. We have time for a quick dip before Vissily takes us back into Oia. After visiting the South, I feel that Santorini has redeemed herself in my mind. Oia is an anomaly of over-tourism and the rest of the island has a friendly, small-town charisma where people can sleep with their doors open, donkeys are used as transport instead of a vehicle and everyone knows each other’s name.
I’m worn out but I walk down the 250 steps to Ammoudi Bay. While walking down, I see two tourists astride donkeys being herded up the stairs by a local with a long stick, and I want to throttle them as they laugh and take video. I pass the forlorn donkeys tied up at the bottom of the stairs and give a curt “No thank you” when asked if I want a one to take me back up to the caldera. They’ve been standing on the stone all day in the heat and making repeated trips up and down. I have heard that the poor beasts have slipped and broken their legs toting tourists up the mountain and I wish I could free them all. I understand everyone needs to make money to feed their families, but I hate to see it at an animal’s expense. If no one used them, the farmers would be forced to find other employment. The government is in the process of not allowing it anymore, but it’s a slow process.
I decide I’m not in the mood for sunset so I slowly climb back up to the caldera and treat myself to the best gelato in town at Lolita’s. The flavourful treat improves my mood and another day ends. I’m halfway through my trip and I’ve done so much already. It feels like I’ve been away for much longer even though the days have sped by. I’m looking forward to the second half of my adventure. Milos and Athens await!
