I arrive at the hot springs, Cascate del Mulino di Saturnia, at 6am and have the place to myself. The smell of sulphur wafts through the air and steam floats past. It’s drizzling rain which adds an even more moody atmosphere in the dawn light. The aqua-coloured pools cascade over the rock formations creating numerous mini waterfalls that eventually dump into the river below. The water isn’t scalding but warm enough to take off the morning chill. I have a 30 minute peaceful soak and then run for my towel and clothes before my skin cools off.
I leave for Florence after breakfast to catch my train to Pisa later this afternoon. Part of the route is so curvy that I almost make myself car sick even though I’m the one driving. Giuseppe handles the road like a pro despite a minor scare when a semi truck roars within 2ft of his rear bumper and all I can see is two massive headlights in the rear view mirror. The truck proceeds to pass me on a double line, on a curve, despite the fact that I’m going 20km/hr over the speed limit. Maniac!
I make it back to the car rental parkade without mishap and even manage to figure out the gas station pump. Giuseppe has arrived home unscathed with a full tank.
I grab the afternoon train to Pisa thinking it’s direct like the woman at the ticket office advised, but I clearly misunderstood because we stop at EVERY little town.
I find my B&B, unload my bags and head out to orient myself. I’m here for less than 24 hours as I just want to see the main attraction, the Leaning Tower of Pisa. As I walk the streets, I notice it’s grittier than Florence or Siena. I don’t want to say it’s run down or dirty. It’s just got a different vibe. There’s more homeless people, a lot of the buildings are dilapidated, there’s more of a punk rock feel to it. Tattooed and pierced young people with dreadlocks stroll the streets. Even my B&B host has a pierced upper and bottom lip.
I find the Leaning Tower of Pisa and I can confirm that, yes, it’s leaning. It looks so weird. The Cattedrale di Pisa is looming up behind which offsets the lean even more so. I snap a quick photo but I’m hoping to get an early morning shot sans tourists if the weather clears up a bit. It’s been spitting rain most of the day and it would stand out better if the skies were bluer. I can’t control the precipitation, but I’m sending out some prayers to the weather gods.
I am absolutely starved and of course I’ve left it until after 3pm and nothing is open. My stomach growls and then I smell fresh pizza. I follow my nose and grab a seat at an outdoor covered table despite the damp weather. An elderly woman is seated at the table beside me and she’s sketching the square we’re in. It’s stunning. I tell her so and she blushes in appreciation. Ann is from San Diego and is a retired math teacher who’s in Italy for two weeks on an artist retreat. She’s meeting a group of artists in a town nearby and they’re going to sketch the countryside and some of the small villages with a local artist. We chat throughout dinner and then she asks to take a selfie to document the moment. We wish each other safe travels and part ways.
Update on my feet…I can walk again! I swear Polysporin is a magic ointment. In a matter of two days it’s almost healed the soles of my feet and I’m no longer limping. Thank the Lord. I may even get to wear my sandals again before the end of the trip with some preventative padding. My healing skills have worked wonders on my feet. Now if I could just fix the lump on my head from when I smashed it on the roof of a cave this morning when changing for the hot springs. Sigh.
