Once again I wake Fotis as I’m leaving the boat for sunrise but he says he doesn’t mind and is getting used to my routine now. I make my way in the predawn light to the Temple of Apollo as I think the lighting will be optimal and way less people. The sky is spotted with a few clouds and the moon is low in the horizon. At this time of day, the wind is cool and refreshing as I make my way up the steps toward the monument. Two other photographers with tripods are at the top awaiting the sun. The sky is a mixture of oranges, yellows and pinks. This is the perfect way to start my day.
Today we sail to Koufonisia which is a smaller island in the Cyclades. Leaving the bay in Naxos there’s quite a large swell and the boat is rolling and dipping. We batten down the hatches and secure our belongings and hang on. Once we clear the bay, it’s smooth sailing again and we can relax at the bow. We see a giant sea turtle swimming and flying fish as we zip along on a westerly heading.
Our swimming spot in the afternoon is unreal…as in it doesn’t look real. It’s too perfect. The colours are so vibrant it’s as if a filter has been added to the entire scene. The water goes from a dark royal blue to a jade turquoise as you get closer to shore. The rocky cliffs are a bright yellow with sandstone mixed in. I hop on my floaty with some difficulty as I’m trying to avoid getting wet. The wind has been chilly today and I need to warm up a bit before I swim in the sea. I find a secluded rock beach and relax for an hour in the quiet before paddling back to our boat.
After swimming we have a short sail to Koufonisia, a small beach town that will be deserted in the next month as the population is less than fifty people once the island shuts down for the winter. I can’t imagine how busy this idyllic island must get in the summer and it’s fortunate the season is winding down and the beaches are pretty much deserted. There’s numerous sheltered coves with fine yellow sand and shallow waters to wade out in to. I find a large pool cut into the edge of the rocky shore and it reminds me of a giant jacuzzi tub.
I haven’t washed my hair in almost a week and it’s beyond rank. I can feel a coating of salt when I try to run my hands through my hair. Our bathrooms are tiny and there’s barely enough room to shower, let alone try to wash my hair. I was going to hold out until we reached Santorini but I can’t take it anymore. My scalp is starting to itch and I’m pretty sure there’s a fishy smell emanating from my hair. There’s a shared shower at the port so I decide it’s time to get cleaned up before crabs start walking out of my hair.
We may have extra windy and rainy weather tomorrow so we could be staying two nights in Koufonisia unless the forecast changes. The town is so small that I will have to wander afar to find some new spots to explore. Fotis told me that if it isn’t raining, I mustn’t miss sunrise as it’s beautiful with the small fishing boats in the foreground. I’ll poke my head out in the morning and check the weather.
We have a delicious dinner of fresh red snapper, feta wrapped in filo pastry, zucchini balls, grilled sardines, and sardines. The night is ended with ice cream and I officially have a food baby that needs to be put to bed. We arrive to a Russian dance party on the dock and Fotis and I groan. We’re both exhausted and “Staying Alive” by the Bee Gees is at full volume. I listen to my music through headphones with the volume cranked in an attempt to drown it out.
