I’ve had a rough night of no sleep. My aching body protests every time I roll over trying to find a more comfortable position. I can’t hike tomorrow, I think. There is no way I can climb a mountain carrying my pack in the heat again. I toss and turn until daylight breaks and head out into one of the pastures with the goats to watch the sun come up. I take a strong muscle relaxant and almost instantly begin to feel a bit better. I’m giving myself a pep talk and a reminder that I chose to do this. Ismat cooks us a hearty breakfast of porridge, cheese, bread and jam which gives me energy and we all rally, encouraging each other. We pack up camp and get an early start before the heat of the day.
Following a goat trail through a gorge surrounded by towering granite boulders, the wild lavender lining the trail gives off a sweet, spicy aroma as we brush past. We are truly in the middle of nowhere but a man with a shopping bag pops out from behind a boulder and then watches us intently as we hike past. Where did he come from and where is he going??
After a steep, 45 minute climb over the Yamon Ketchi Pass we reach the summit and take in the beautiful views. The hard part is over. Continuing down a granite ledge cut into the mountainside, we return to civilization and are met by Artur, Padraig and Pradeep. It’s time to get some last minute photos with the donkeymans and say our goodbyes.
We stop for lunch at a local restaurant in Langar village and devour a delicious lunch of salads, soup and meat filled dumplings before continuing on to Kyzyl Kum Desert where we’ll stay for two nights in a yurt camp. The camp consists of a dozen yurts with four cots inside, a main building with a dining area and bathroom building. I’m covered in dirt, I haven’t brushed my hair for four days and my hiking socks could stand up on their own so I’m dying for a shower, but a few of us opt to go for a refreshing dip in the man-made lake down the road instead. The lake is so big it looks like we’re on the sea, with bulrushes surrounding the edge and a large sandy beach with lounge chairs.
Heading back to camp Rosalie, MK, Claudia and I get our yurt organized before heading to one of the dunes for sunset and a bottle of wine that Ismat has organized for the group. The perfect end to a full day. The aching muscles and sore feet are soon forgotten.
