Wedgies

Nature toilet calls at 1am and upon exiting tent I see a bright orange moon hovering just over the mountain ridge and the sky filled with stars.  Beautiful!  It’s so cold I stay outside only briefly before crawling back into my warm sleeping bags.

I’m up early for the last morning of riding and walk to a couple summer cabins nearby.  They’re lit in bright sunshine, and I can hear cuckoo birds and the rushing water of the river.  

For breakfast we have a concoction of rice, peas, seaweed sheets and raisins.  The last of the food.  We pack up for the short ride to Narankhuu’s ger.  I’ve ditched the riding helmet and half chaps.  It’s even warmer temperatures today and I’m more comfortable without them.

  

It’s a short ride and the horses are setting a brisk pace.  This is the first time they’re all vying for the front position. They know they’re headed for home.  Ganbaa greets us on our arrival and Narankhuu’s wife invites us into the ger for milk tea and fresh baked donuts.  Secretly I was hoping there’s be tea and donuts so I’m thrilled.  They’re so yummy I eat four.

Unuruu and I opt to have a “nature bath” by the river. I set up a canvas screen using the surrounding shrubs so the ger occupants don’t get an unwanted view of me bathing.  I fill a large washtub from the river and start with my upper body.  The water soon turns a dark brown.  Towelling off I continue with the lower limbs.  I look up and see two teenage boys on horseback across the river 100 feet away.  I quickly cover up and they continue on their way. My feet are absolutely disgusting after 6 days in the same socks.  Gag🤢.  I somewhat manage to wash my hair by dunking my head in the tub.  The river water is so cold it gives me a headache.  A quick wash of my socks that are standing up by themselves and my t-shirt.  Clean clothes finish off the nature bath and I feel like a new woman.

I return to our ger to pack up my bag with the contents I’d left in the Beast.  I turn around and am greeted with the sight of Padraig’s bare white ass.  

“Dude!! What the hell man?  You’re not alone here!  My retinas are forever seared with the sight!!”  

“Well, I could’ve been facing the other way.”

Me – palm strike to the face.  We’ve clearly gotten a little too comfortable with each other the last couple weeks. 

I gather together cigarettes and cash tips for our horse guides for all their hard work the last six days.  John gives Erdenee his rubber boots to replace the ones that have a gash in them and gives Narankhuu some tools.  I put together gift bags for Narankhuu’s daughter in-law, Ganbaa and Unuruu.  It’s a collection of reader glasses, cigarettes, colouring books, snacks and mini sewing kits.

It’s a relaxing afternoon in the afternoon heat. We listen to music, I edit some photos and print some off for the reindeer families and the horse guides.  I’d like to purchase a deel, the traditional robe worn by the men and women, and Unuruu gives me the choice of two that were handmade by Narankhuu’s daughter in-law.  One is bright red with a royal blue sash and the other is dark blue with an intricate pattern.  I opt for the red one as it’s lined with thicker fabric and I’ll be able to wear it in winter at home.  Unuruu assists me in donning it and I ask Padraig to take a photo of me outside the ger.  I have a photo of my Grampa from back in the ‘80’s where he’s wearing a deel standing out front of a ger and I’ve been wanting to recreate it.

As we’re chilling in our ger, I hear a vehicle pull up and a husband and wife from the United States and their guide hop out.  They’ll be staying with Narankhuu and heading out for a short riding trip with Erdenee tomorrow.  We’ve gotten so used to not seeing any other white people that we’re a little put out that these “bloody tourists” have invaded our space.  Of course we’re gracious and give them advice for the trek – plan for any weather, bundle up at night, don’t treat the horses like domesticated animals.

At dinner Unuruu is dishing out our plates and asks if I’d like more “wedgies”.  We all start laughing and I say,

“I think you mean veggies” and go on to explain what a wedgie is by giving a demonstration on Padraig.  John is laughing so hard he has tears coming out his eyes and Unuruu explains to Ganbaa in Mongolian why we’re in hysterics through her giggles.  Erdenee and Narankhuu share a last dinner with us and we wave goodbye to Erdenee as he rides off into the sunset.  

Last night on the plains and I’m feeling melancholy.  How can this time be over already?  Already the reindeer herding families seem so far away.  I will miss this beautiful place and people.