Seoul Searching

I get very little sleep due to the time difference but my excitement over exploring a new city washes away the sleepiness.  I use the time to figure out how I’m going to get to the airport for my flight to Mongolia and I’m none the wiser after an hour of surfing the web.  The problem is that my flight leaves early and the train doesn’t run at that hour so it looks like my only choice is a $75 taxi ride.  Ugh.  I hate throwing money away on transportation.  I resign myself to the money gouge and plot out an itinerary for the day.

It’s 7am and the city is still quiet so I can wander at my leisure.  People are grabbing their coffees before heading off to work, sweepers are cleaning the   streets and there’s a cool breeze to temper the high humidity.

I make my way to Jogyesa Temple.  The grounds are strung with thousands of colourful paper lanterns and locals are lighting incense and praying at the small stupa in the centre.  The interior of the temple has massive gold buddhas sitting watch over the attendees.  It’s a peaceful spot in the middle of the city.

I arrive at Gyeonbokgung Palace before the ticket office opens but I want to beat the crowds so I don’t mind waiting.  It’s the largest and supposedly, most beautiful palace in Seoul so I’m looking forward to exploring the vast grounds. 

The palace grounds are beautiful and I have them to myself due to being the first person through the gates.  I wander amongst the numerous buildings and forget that I’m in the middle of a bustling city.  Within the walls I only hear chirping birds and the rustling leaves in the wind.  The grounds are immaculate and even the dirt pathways have been swept.

I make my way to Bukchon Hanok Village – a 14th century village with traditional homes.  Tourists are dressed up in hanoks, which literally means Korean dress, and it brings the ancient streets to life.  I sneak a few photos since as a Caucasian person, the outfit just doesn’t have the same vibe. 

As I’m walking to Changgyeonggung Palace I come across world famous Randy’s Donuts.  Of course I’m stopping!  Is there any healthier lunch than two massive donuts?  I’ll go on the diet when I get to Mongolia.  I mean there’s only so much yak and mutton a person can eat in two weeks so I need to fill up on the tasty treats now!  I can’t be expected to pass on a coconut dusted, strawberry jelly filled donut!  That’s against my moral code.

After walking around in circles for a frustrating 30 minutes I finally locate the entrance to Changgyeonggung Palace.  Sometimes it’s just best to put the map away and look around for signs.  I spend the rest of the afternoon meandering through the grounds of the palace, attempting to avoid the crowds.  I meet four young Korean women dressed in the traditional hanoks and in broken English they ask me to take a photo.  They’ve got the practiced poses including the fake laughing like they’re having the time of their lives.  I can’t help but have an inside giggle at their theatrics.

I’ve been walking for eight hours and my feet hurt, my eyes feel like they’re full of sand and I’m exhausted.  But, it’s been a great day.  I make the mistake of resting for a bit at the main palace, and now I don’t want to get up.  Perhaps someone will take pity on an old lady and carry me back to my hotel if I look pathetic enough.  I wait 15 minutes but no one offers their services so it looks like it’s up to me to drag my back to the hotel. 

I dump my camera bag in my room.  I don’t have the energy to walk far for food and find 24 Hours Ramen Convenience Store on the map.  Upon entering, there are no employees but I find some instructions written in English.  It’s a self-serve ramen bar with a wall of  packaged noodles to choose from.  I choose some noodles based on the package photo and pray it isn’t spicy.  I pay my $4 at the self-serve kiosk, empty the package contents into a bowl,  add my sides and then put the bowl on an automated hot plate.  I press start and hot water pours into my bowl and the bottom plate heats up.  Stirring occasionally my bubbling ramen dinner is ready in three minutes.  There’s stools for seating and i plop myself down at the front window so I can see the street happenings.  This is the most bizarre “restaurant” I’ve been in.  What’s to stop people from not paying?  There are cameras set up but would the owner get here quick enough to catch someone?  This would never work in Vancouver.

On the street, pop-up restaurants are being set up by the vendors.  They’re called pojangmachas and are small tented spaces that serve street food and beer.  I may give one of them a try tomorrow but for tonight, all I can think of is my bed.